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Les Joyaux Unique

Les Joyaux Unique

Wednesday, February 19, 2020/ Editor -  

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ROSAMONDA - Fabrice Pellegrin - Floral Green Rose

Cassis Base > Rose Infusion Damascena > Rose Centifolia base > Hédione > Abs Rose Bulgare Damascena Cassis Base> Rose Damascena Infusion> Rose Centifolia base> Hedione> Bulgarian Damascena Rose Abs

Gathering precious flowers in the fields of Grasse gave Fabrice the idea of ROSAMONDA. He sought to reproduce the bright and colorful scent of rose sepals: vibrant freshness, slightly fruity, for a feeling of harvest-time naturalness and vegetality. The combination of three qualities of rose brings a great richness to this perfume.


The floral naturalism is intensified by Hedione, which gives the note a diaphanous and moist aura.

Perfumer's note:
“That morning the air was cool, still damp with dew. The harvest was finished, the baskets were filled with sparkling roses just begging to be caressed. On a whim that morning, I scooped up a handful of dropped sepals, being careful to avoid the thorns. I raised my fingertips to my nose, the smell intoxicated me. I scribbled everything down on a piece of paper. Then, taking my time, I faithfully transcribed the fleeting image: the stem from the root to the delicate thorns, the sap running under the foliage, the reflection of the sun…
An instantaneous olfactory journey, unique in the fields of Grasse, at day’s end…'


CUIRISSIME - Fabrice Pellegrin - Floral Violet Leather
Oily Leather Base > Astrotone> Violet Leaves Absolute > Concrete Iris> Hedione> Muscenone 

Fabrice wanted to honor the birth of Grasse perfumery with a leather note reminiscent of tanneries. A tribute to the tradition of Grasse leather but also to the use of perfume as an olfactory ornament. The leaves of violet create the link between velvety leather and the bitter pistacia lentiscus.

Perfumer's note: 
I imagined a soft leather like a satin skin and I combined it with violet leaf to give this leather note a fresh, slightly herbaceous facet that supports the floral notes of the Iris. It’s a unique combination, at once refined and sensual.
As a perfumer I am wholly at the service of my ingredients, which are sculpted, mastered, sublimated, brought to light in a simple and direct manner.”


COFFEEZE -  Aurélien Guichard - Oud Expresso
Laos FirBest Oud > Santos Coffee SFE> Sandalwood Accord> Patchouli HE> Tonka Absolute

Oud is a mysterious and elusive raw ingredient with a complex mix dark and golden tones.
Fascinating and repulsive, it intrigues... and becomes ever more attractive.
Coffee is another dark material, flat and bitter, resolutely roasted.
This is a unique fragrance that forces the Oud and the Coffee to meet, to hear each other, to talk to each other, to get tangled in each other.

Perfumer's note:
“I transform the textures, the ingredients split, then recombine, stretched to the limit of the bearable. They become mobile, as if on a tightrope… infinite vertigo. Oud and Café, an infernal couple, like in the Serge Gainsbourg song, “Je t’aime, moi non plus.” I love you, neither do I.”
Les Joyaux Sensoriels


SPRINGPOP - Céline Ellena - Musky Floral
Basil Grand Vert HE> Calabrian Bergamot HE> Hedione> Magnolan> Musk T

First beautiful days as winter surrenders to spring, which explodes with joy: flowers, sap, young shoots… The air smells of hay, iodine and resins. This is a 'flower' of colorful artifice, an overflow of sweet and pure sensations ... if you listen, you can hear a 'pop' at each flowering.

Perfumer's note:
“The sun is inebriating... the sea and the sea baths await... vacation looms in the distance…'

 

SOPOUDRAGE - Fabrice Pellegrin – Iris Rose
Iris Base> Oxide Rose> Phenylethyl Alcohol> Hedione> Iralia

Fabrice has Grasse in the blood. Son of a perfumer, grandson of an adored grandmother who was a jasmine picker, a grandfather who produced raw ingredients, he performs two activities at Firmenich: he is a creative perfumer and he also develops natural products. With this fragrance he sought to pay tribute to the Iris, a rich flower with a rare and complex flower signature.
It takes six years to obtain the best Iris quality: three years of cultivation and three years of drying. Here it is linked to the Rose, a beauty among beauties, a symbolic flower. Two royal flowers, often evoked, but rarely loved for themselves.
Powdery Rose softens Iris, brings out its cold beauty. The Rose ceases to be romantic, the Iris ceases to be haughty. Rose and Iris waltz in unison. A creation in chiaroscuro, contrasted and magnetic.

Perfumer's note: 
Fabrice has imagined a perfume that is figurative, whose aerial aesthetic is reminiscent of the petals of Iris, and profound in its olfactory richness.

 

ULTRAHOT - Aurélien Guichard  - Leather Incense
Oliban Essence> Habanolide> Astrotone> Safraleine> Elemi Essence


Aurélien drew on his travel memories and brought back from the East a glowing leather, both mystical and modern, where light is queen and leather is king.
An olfactory richness, burning, dense, radiating… an elegant pas de deux between incense and saffron ... where the ingredients melt and merge.

Perfumer's note:
And if the light radiated an odor?
When the sky embraces the earth, the sun erases the shadows. Nature becomes pure vibration.

 

GINGERLISE - Alexandra Carlin – Spicy Heperide
Madagascar Ginger roots > Pink peppercorns and leaves> Bouquet of aromatics> Angelica roots> Fig Accord > Absinthe

'When matter becomes color...'
Madagascar, a land of colors and contrasts, of spices and shamans. I discovered  there, on this big red island covered with laterite, an endemic variety of zesty ginger with hints of lemon and verbena, whose freshly cut root is distilled and whose color turns blues in the light.
Added to this is Angelica root, earthy and musky, Absinthe leaf, bitter and intoxicating, the wood of Abreuva and its ambrette tone, musky, powdery, slightly fruity animal and masculine musks, and woody aldehydes.


Perfumer’s note: 
Alexandra considers each of her formulas as a blank canvas. She chooses her ingredients as a centre disposes of its colors.
I imagined a blue-green landscape with identically colored ingredients: a meeting of heaven and earth. I put my ingredients in large and generous solid areas, draw out the fragrance until the transparency and the material becomes light, powerful and tender.

 

AMBRASER – Aurélien Guichard – Ambre Salé
Amber Accord > Sea salt Accord  > Cedar > Iso E Super > Bergamote HE 

Aurelian’s first language was flowers, learned from his perfumer father and his flower-producing grandparents, his love of the earth and the scent of roses and jasmine in Grasse, the cradle of his childhood. For him, the task of the perfumer is to incite desire, to create fragrances that will make those who wear them desirable.


Each of his creations reflects his respect of savoir-faire, orally transmitted, collected with the utmost attentiveness and sensitivity.
A childhood memory: I have three grains in my hand:


a grain of salt
a grain of sun
a grain of skin


I put them on the top of my sandcastle. The sea and the wind carried them away. Three grains of sand remained in my hand, in my closed fist, three fragrances warm in my memory.


Childhood memory for a great fragrance:
Mineral like sand
Amber like the sun
Carnal like salt

 

Perfumer’s note:
'My creations are linked to the times in which I live. The ingredients create connections between my fantasies and memories, between desire and modesty.”

 

SUPERFUSION – Céline Ellena – Ambery Musk
Galaxolide> Isoraldeine> Hedione> Immortelle Absolute> Black Pepper HE> Ambrettolide


Céline Ellena imagines her fragrances as sensitive stories that touch each of us in our heart and on our skin, leaving a trace. She likes to think that perfumers are embroiderers of memories, weavers of associations, and menders of souls.
Reflections of silver on a still lake, the sky meets the water and turns into an active ingredient, a silver amber that diffuses a thousand contrasting facets: hot and cold, soft and dry, limpid and matte.

Perfumer's note:
Fall in love with a scent of skin... a heat that is intensely cold...

 

NOIRESSENCE - Alexandra Carlin – Leathery Floral
Black pepper essence> orange blossom Absolute > Bigarade sorbet accord> Iris powder> Ink accord> Velvet leather

A leathery Eau that does not fall into any category ....
A pointillist portrait in blackcurrant buds, with an overdose of pepper, styrax, fucus and cade: a palette of dark colors to translate every intensity of black.
Shimmering black ink, shiny algae adorned with water pearls... a mineral reflection, the dark, flat mercury of charred lava.
And beyond all this black, a peaceful, radiating breath of bigarade orange and orange blossom, and the powdery halo of Iris root.

Perfumer's note:
'I imagined a perfume without anything binding it, without background noise, whose facets - successions of abstract and contrasted impacts - express the infinite brightness of black, an absolute black full of light, like a painting by Pierre Soulages.”

 

SEXYCRUSH - Alienor Massenet - Oriental Woody 
Rose Accord > Labdanum Absolute> Gurjum balsam essence> Wood Accord> Natural Oud India> Renewable vanilla

“To be with nature, truly experience it, listen to it, respect it...'
A perfume of infinite contrasts, in which Rose, Oud and Vanilla commingle to create an addictive olfactory imprint with all the emotion of the Spice Road. Aliénor’s key signature, Cistus Labdanum Absolute, gives a mystical dimension.
A wood accord for sensuality... A “virtuous circle:” raw ingredients chosen for their lack of impact on the environment. 89% renewable carbon.

Perfumer’s note: 
“I wanted a perfume as light as a feather, that doesn’t leave a trace on the planet, only on the skin, with an incredible wake and a strong signature. An inescapable personality of great generosity.”


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